In this exclusive online supplement to "Steven Satterfield's Atlanta," our culinary tour of the city led by the celebrated chef at Miller Union, we feature two stellar recipes from our visit. Below the recipes you can also listen to "Winter Birds," the final album released by Seely—which is the dream pop band that Steven founded in the mid-nineties.
Farm Egg Baked in Celery Cream
Recycled Paper Plane
“Celery cream” is a simple idea: Steep cream with celery, aromatics, and herbs, then strain. This is the basis for one of Miller Union’s signature dishes, where it's served it as a first course, but it also makes an outstanding breakfast or brunch entrée at home. Its power is in its simplicity, but timing is everything. A farm egg is cracked into a ramekin or shallow bowl and doused in the warm celery-infused cream, then baked until the white is cooked through—and not a second longer. The briny hint of celery permeates the thickened cream as it becomes one with the egg white. The best way to eat it is to puncture the runny yolk with a corner of your bread and drag it straight through the molten mixture of savory cream and just-set white on the way to your mouth. Although at Miller Union they serve this year-round, in the winter they add some of the freshly harvested celery from local farms.
1 tablespoon butter, plus more for buttering ramekins or bowls
6 ribs celery, including leaves, roughly chopped
1 shallot, including skin, sliced ½ small onion, including skin, sliced
12 black peppercorns, crushed
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 small bay leaf
4 sprigs fresh thyme
2 cups heavy cream
6 large, farm-fresh eggs
6 slices crusty bread
Extra virgin olive oil
In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon butter until foamy. Add the celery, shallot, onion, peppercorns, salt, bay leaf, and thyme. Cook the vegetables, stirring frequently, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. With a wooden spoon, smash the cooked vegetables against the bottom of the pan to release more of their flavors. Add the cream to the pan and heat until it begins to simmer. Remove from the heat and let steep for 20 minutes. Strain the cream into a medium bowl, gently pressing on the solids. Discard the solids and reserve the flavored cream, keeping it warm.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter six 5-ounce ovenproof ramekins or bowls and place them on a baking sheet. Crack one egg into each ramekin or bowl, being careful not to break the yolk. Spoon ¼ cup of the warm celery cream over each egg. The cream should just cover the egg but with the yolk slightly protruding across the top. Slide the baking sheet with the ramekins or bowls onto the middle rack of the oven. Bake the eggs and check them after 5 minutes. As soon as the whites start to set around the edge of the ramekin or bowl, pull the eggs from the oven and put aside. The eggs may be slightly undercooked but will continue to cook with the residual heat for few minutes.
Turn the oven setting to broil. Brush the bread on both sides lightly with olive oil. Broil the bread for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, until warm and toasted. Because heat radiates from the source at the bottom of the oven, the whites of the eggs may need to cook a little longer. You can run the eggs under the broiler briefly, but take extra precaution not to overcook the yolks. With the broiler on and the oven door propped open, position the ramekins 8 to 10 inches below the heat source. Watch carefully while the surface of the egg begins to cook. It is fine if the whites brown slightly, but the goal is to keep the yolks runny. Serve immediately with the warm, toasted bread.
A classic Paper Plane is made with Amaro Noninio, Aperol, bourbon, and lemon juice. In Steven's twist, Cynar, the bittersweet liquor made from artichoke and other botanicals, replaces the Amaro and Aperol.
Makes 2 cocktails
1-1/2 ounces bourbon
1-1/2 ounces Cynar
1-1/2 ounces fresh lemon juice
2 lemon peels, for garnish
Combine all ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker and shake vigorously for 10 seconds to combine. Strain the drink over fresh ice cubes in 2 tumblers.
Released February 8, 2000
Seely is the "dream pop" band formed by Steven Satterfield and Lori Scacco in 1994. Winter Birds, included here in full, is the final album that they released.
Farm Egg Baked in Celery Cream reprinted by permission of HaperWave, a division of HarperCollins Publishers,
©2015 by Steven Satterfield. Photo by Heidi Geldhauser.