Across the internet, we’ve been reading great stories that tap the intersection of food culture and queer culture. We’ll be periodically rounding up some of our favorites here on Jarry Briefs—below are a few to enjoy as you head into the weekend.
Ruby Tandoh—the British writer, G.B.B.O. alum, and one of the most compelling critical thinkers in food; Mayukh Sen profiled her in Jarry for Issue 5—ingeniously coins the phrase “culinary selfie” in her examination of writer M.F.K. Fisher’s legacy. (via Munchies, November 5, 2018 )
Moving away from the assertive “you are what you eat,” we can venture into a more uncertain, questioning space: Why do you eat what you eat? Who has the freedom to eat for pleasure, and who does not? Why does food matter at all? We start, but do not finish, with the Fisher-esque culinary selfie. The gastronomical “me” is no longer a monolith but an anchor point: a place in time, space, family, and culture from which we might turn our lens outwards to explore issues of hunger as well as comfort, suffering as well as joy.
Comedian John Early’s “Grub Street Diet” is a Propecia-addled riot. (via Grub Street, October 19, 2018)
What’s nice about being a gay boy is, before you become cripplingly self-aware about your gayness, you have no shame just following your mom around the kitchen and asking her questions.
Writer and cook Jessica Battilana, who appears in our new issue in a profile by Caroline Lange, wrote a moving essay about feeding people, one of the gifts she inherited from her recently deceased mother. It appears in the San Francisco Chronicle’s special Matriarchy Issue, which is fantastic in its entirety. (via San Francisco Chronicle, October 26, 2018 )
My mother didn’t cook because she had to — plenty of kids do just fine raised on peanut butter-and-jelly sandwiches and takeout, I know, and the myth that a home-cooked meal will solve all of the world’s problems is just that, a myth. She cooked because she loved feeding people, I think. And she passed that delicious legacy on to me.
Mayukh Sen introduces many of us to Chef Felipe Rojas-Lombardi, the trailblazing, gay Venezuelan chef who’s credited with introducing tapas to the United States. (via Taste, October 18, 2018 )
Today, I see Rojas-Lombardi’s food as reflecting a queer sensibility in its own right, magnificent and opulent in its presentation, unconcerned with rules that governed what was within culinary bounds at the time. This was a man who put veal kidneys on skewers made of rosemary sprigs. His food was intimidatingly exacting and technique-driven, but motivated, too, by a subtle disregard for convention.
Are there any “pomme queens” in the house? With apple-picking season hitting its peak, here’s a feed for you.
Andre Springer, also known as hot-sauce shakin’ drag queen Shaquanda Coco Mulatta, discusses how his hot sauce is a way to “bring his drag performance into spaces that often lack queer visibility”—like grocery stores and farmers markets—in a profile by Elazar Sontag. (via Healthyish. November 9, 2018)
“I'm a one-queen shop, and it's hard doing all of these things,” he says. “But I want to see more queer visibility on the shelf. There's so much you can do with advertising and packaging that can teach people to love each other and be accepting.”
Art by Steve Viksjo